Axolotls, or ambystoma mexicanum (also known as Mexican Walking Fish in at least New Zealand, Wooper Looper/Ooper Rooper in Japanese) are a neotenic salamander, belonging to the Amphibian family Caudata/Urodela. Neotenic means that they remain in their larval form, and reach sexual maturity. Axolotls used to go through metamorphosis into land-walking salamanders, changing their appearance and losing their gills, but have regressed through evolution to remain an underwater dweller. They still grow lungs, which has led many people to believe they can live and walk out of water, but this practice is stressful and cruel.

 

 

GROWTH

Axolotls start in an egg, and hatch after about three weeks, and are less than a centimeter long, with no legs. A well fed axolotl can grow a centimeter a week, and can grow to around 30cms as an adult. Axolotls have been known to live for twenty years, but in captivity, they tend to last about ten to fifteen.

 

Axolotls are also fascinating in the fact that if they are injured, or lose a limb, they can regenerate a new limb or even part of an organ. A photo guide of a limb growing back is available here, it's quite fascinating. Axolotls are studied by scientists the world over, to learn more about their regenerative qualities.

 

TANK REQUIREMENTS

An axolotl is a coldwater creature, so they do not need a heater, and are best kept in dark, cool places. They dwell on the bottom of the tank, so a tank of considerable length is required. Height is not so important. A good starting size for a single axolotl is L: 70cm W: 45cm H:40+. A good rule is an extra 20cms length for every extra axolotl you get. This is to ensure they have plenty of space away from each other, in case one is aggressive or has cannabalistic tendencies.

 

Axolotls should have a filter. They don't like water current, so a filter that produces a weak water flow is best. Canister filters are a great, but expensive option for this, as they often have a spray bar addition. This increases the output, making it weaker, and it can be aimed to trickle down the glass. So long as the surface of the water is disturbed, you will get good filtration. Partial water changes should be done weekly, for a planted aquarium, slightly less frequently is fine.

 

The tank should have plenty of caves and dark places. Axolotls have very weak eyes, so need to avoid the light. They have no eyelids, so you need to provide lots of shade and hiding places. They are more active at night because of this, but are not necessarily nocturnal. For multiple axolotls, it is best to have more hides, and also try to create layers, so they have more space to sit away from each other, such as ledges and flat-roof caves.

 

Plants and lighting can be used, but lighting is not required for an axolotl. If you use a light, you need to have extra hiding places. Plants can provide extra shade, but axies often tear around the tank and dislodge them, so be prepared to keep replanting your plants.

 

SUBSTRATE

Small stones, pebbles and aquarium gravel are NOT suitable for an axolotl. No excuses. The best substrate for an axolotl is either sand, or a bare-bottom tank. Axolotls basically inhale their food, creating a vacuum, and often suck up small pebbles. These can get stuck in their stomach, cause a blockage and impaction, and kill your axolotl. Sand is finer, so passes easily, and more gently on your axolotl.  Handfeeding is also a good method to keep your axolotls head off the ground, but they will still try eating pebbles when it is not feeding time. 

Sand should be smooth and fine, smaller than 1mm. Sharp jagged sand-y shard substrates aren't much better than pebbles. Black "sand" gravel is often too rough, and can cut up an axolotls insides. 

Some people have been known to use slate tiles on the bottom of their tank, or large river rocks. River rocks need to be significantly larger than your axolotls head. It can be said that food gets stuck between these rocks and causes difficulty keeping the tank clean, and water chemistry right, but it depends on the skill and knowledge of the owner.

 

FOOD

Young axolotls need to eat every day, although, as they get larger and older their metabolism slows down, and they need fed less and less. An adult axolotl can be fed small meals every second day, or larger meals every 3-4. Watch your axolotls interest in food to gauge how much is good. A healthy axolotl has a belly as fat as their head.

 

The best meal nutritionally for an axolotl is earthworms. Worms are a stable diet for axolotls. However, if you want to add variety, there are plenty of options. There are axolotl pellets, usually made of salmon, frozen and live bloodworms, frozen axolotl foods, bugs, decapitated mealworms, shrimp, and feeder fish. Only a few varieties of fish/live aquatics can be used for axolotls, preferably cold water. Smallish goldfish, platys, danios, tadpoles, shrimps, snails, to name a few. You need to be careful that the fish you feed doesn't have any sharp spines that can pierce your axolotl. Mealworms need to be decapitated because they have pincers that can grab onto your axolotl, externally or internally.

 

Some people also feed their axolotls raw red meat, oxheart, liver etc. These foods should be avoided, as they are high in fat, hard to digest, and just aren’t necessary for an axolotl. If used, they should be used very sparingly, like a treat. However, the best treat for your axie is worms.

 

FEEDING

Feeding axolotls is the funnest part of owning axolotls. The best method is to handfeed them, using tongs or blunt tweezers. The food is held or dropped over the axolotls head, or in front of their face, so they can snap it up.

A tidy method for those not wanting to handfeed is to use a feeding bowl or jar. The feeding bowl teaches them where to go to eat, and to show you they are hungry. It keeps the food slightly contained, and makes less mess. A feeding jar is even better for feeding frozen bloodworms. You place a jar or glass on it's side, and place the frozen cube in. It will defrost and sit neatly on the bottom. The axolotl will eventually smell it, and it might take some time, but will find it's way into the jar and eat. It might still make a mess, but it shouldn't go as far as without a jar.

Most axolotls have a good sense of smell, so neither a feeding bowl or handfeeding are always necessary, it just helps you to keep the aquarium tidy and to monitor your axies eating. Not all axies are experts at sniffing out food themselves, so these options help for that.

 

TANKMATES

The only tankmates you can have for axolotl are other axolotl of the same size. Everything else will end up as food, or will try to eat your axolotl. Plecos have been known to latch onto your axolotls skin, and some fish might nibble on your axolotls gills. If you have two axolotl of differing sizes, they need to be kept separate, either in separate tanks or with a tank divider. If the smaller axolotl can fit into the bigger axolotls mouth, they cannot be together. In order to avoid cannibalism and accidental nipping, you should feed your axolotls well, and on opposite sides of the tank. Never feed an axolotl right beside another one, or it will result in injury.

 

EXTRAS

Sexing your axolotl and breeding information

How to rear baby axolotls

Signs of stress and sickness in your axolotl